Fashion underwear: when underwear comes out of the closet

Tops and intimate shirts "in full view" for a summer that promotes underwear as the interpreter of sensual yet comfortable outfits.

Underwear is changing its face and is no longer confined to intimate spaces. Thanks to quality fabrics and yarns, accurate designs and fine details such as lace, trimmings and transparent inserts, underwear becomes part of outfits with a high level of seduction. A "revolution" that has its origins in history, especially Italian history. Although, in fact, it was the Egyptians who cleared customs for the first forms of clothing reserved to remain concealed, it was actually later the Romans who created garments in every way similar to today's designed to protect the body, but also to keep it clean and to enhance it. Roman women in fact habitually wore tight bands under the breasts so as to contain but above all expose them. An aesthetic sense that was lost, however, in the Middle Ages, during which underwear seems to have been reserved for men, who included "brache"(underpants-trousers) in their daily look. "Gender equality" was only achieved with the Renaissance, which led to the spread not only of strictly unisex knee-length shirts and knickers, but also of garters. Originally intended for men to hold up stockings, they quickly conquered the female wardrobe, which made them a powerful weapon of seduction. Seduction found its greatest expression between 1500 and the end of the 1800s when corsets, bodices, petticoats, crinolines, underskirts, knickers and knee-length stockings allowed women to shape and transform their bodies, making them conform to the beauty standards of the time.

We would have to wait until 1900 to see a new change of direction marked by the invention of the bra by the American activist, writer and publisher Caresse Crosby who patented it on 3 November 1914. But that was not all. Briefs also made their way into the market, the result of the progressive shortening of the historical knickers, born in 1906 for the male universe, but soon also produced for women. Women who, in the 1950s, learned to use underwear to enhance their curves and feel sexy: balconette bras and girdles entered the underwear drawers in a big way where, from the 1960s onwards, with the appearance of the miniskirt, briefs made more and more room. While feminists took to burning bras to express their condemnation of a "fake" image of women, tied solely to aesthetics, lingerie manufacturers, in order to stem the crisis, introduced the use of softer materials and more natural lines designed to envelope without altering the body shape.

With the arrival of the 1970s and the appearance of female-driven television series in which women reclaimed the value of their beauty and sensuality, underwear as a form of exaltation made a comeback until it became a symbol of emancipation in the 1980s. The singer Madonna with her pointy bras and bustiers displayed as garments to be flaunted outside the bedroom paved the way and other women followed suit. With the appearance of Wonderbras in the 1990s and Victoria's Secret with its "Angels", underwear was made mainstream. It is branded, especially for men. Briefs and boxer shorts, but also shirts and tank tops, to be up to date, bore the brand name, which had to peep out firmly under the shirt or trousers.

Outwear underwear: Tops and intimate jerseys as under-jackets

An obstacle course that has been taken over the years by undergarments that are now experiencing a new season. In the name of inclusiveness and freedom, brands are promoting naturalness through the use of soft, fresh fabrics, preferably made from organic or sustainable yarns, which are not afraid to come out into the open. Lingerie is no longer hidden and conquers the catwalks, becoming a means of expressing one's personality. So it is no surprise that women are sporting underwear tops and shirts as underwear, thanks to the sophistication and refinement of the details that make them garments to be shown off especially in evening outfits. Examples of this are Boglietti's women's underwear proposals such as ‘Clizia’, a wool and silk tank top with a netted insert on the neckline, ‘Carola’, in soft stretch modal cotton with lace on the neckline and ‘Victoria’, a mercerised cotton top with lace detail on the front.